Friday, August 11, 2000

Heading over Muir Pass. Mom and I are on our way up towards the pass now. I burst on ahead and am sitting on the bank of what I had hoped would be Helen Lake, but has turned out to be the last unnamed pond before Helen Lake. Beautiful, though. I'm sitting on a lichen-stained black rock with my back to the lake and a view of the emerald-clad path below. A single hiker toils up the trail. Red backpack. Mom. I'm waiting to make sure she gets across this rather tricky stream crossing okay and to try to allay her disappointment when she finds out that this (just like the last!) is not yet Helen Lake.

On an odd final note before wrapping up this entry, I'm having rather extreme Sandra Bullock thoughts on this leg of the journey. I dreamed last night that she was my girlfriend. Typically weird.

Just after 8 PM- It was a 10+ hour day. Rough, as usual. The hiking day started at 7 AM. I started out alone, continuing up LeConte, went past our campsite of several years ago and on up. I thought the first lake was Helen Lake and thought Will was kidding when he said it wasn't. Then another lake, then switchbacks, then Lake Helen finally.

Snow crossing

Below Helen Lake. One of our few snow crossings.

Helen Lake

Helen Lake in the morning. Fifteen minutes after the rock.

Helen Lake again

Looking down on Helen from above. Our last glimpse.

An hour, maybe more, and I'm sitting on the front stoop of the Muir Hut. Top of Muir Pass! Definitely one of the more intense ascents we've done, and probably one of the most intense on the JMT. I would wager it's even tougher than the climb from Vidette to Forester Pass. I'm alone up here, save for a pair of mangy marmots, who poke about the rocks a mere five feet from me. Oblivious to my presence, they scrounge what detritus we JMT-ers have left behind. Helen Lake below was remarkable, certainly the most still lake we've seen since we've been out here. Difficult to see at first, for its mirror-perfect reflection of the unnamed peak behind it. So of course I tossed a rock in. Fifteen minutes later the surface still blurred in places as the last of the ripples settled back into stillness. I feel pretty good, though a touch impatient. I'm anxious to get down to Evolution Valley for some reason. Kick back. Mellow. Mom's probably not thrilled with that. I keep darting ahead like an over-exuberant dog, continually pausing to check behind. Make sure she's alright and make sure she's still there. .

The switchbacks led to the top sooner than I expected, actually. I didn't see Muir Hut until I was upon it. What a relief. Whew! I was singing "Dirait-on" in my head but I find that I often don't sing because my pace is so slow that even thinking of music takes much-needed energy. At the top we met Pete and Colleen, two very friendly folks who both work at the Ahwahnee and were doing a one week Mammoth to South Lake trip.

whew!

Chris and the Muir Hut.

It's all downhill from here

To the north: Wanda Lake

Dwarfed by rock and stone

Will atop Muir. In front of a mountain.

Then I started down the hill alone, past McDermand and on to Wanda. It was a long slog past other lakes and finally to Sapphire. My toes hurt by then so the Tevas went on all the way to the end of Evolution Lake- a very hot bit of newly rerouted and re-engineered, but not, in my opinion, improved trail. We rested at Evolution Lake and ate crackers and dried fruit (we're out of lunch stuff) and on down to the Valley.

Bug Central

Wanda Lake. Terribly buggy, but they don't bite.

respite

Procuring water at Sapphire Lake for the hike down.

Evolution Nub

A teensy little bit of Evolution Lake.

The last leg

Looking down to Evolution Valley. A gorgeous sight.

We left about 3 and got to a nice campsite in Colby Meadow a little after 5. It was downhill from Evolution Lake to the Valley and my toes didn't hurt till the end. We splashed around in the river and Will had a fish nipping at his leg. Dinner was enchiladas and miso soup with chocolate cheesecake decadence for dessert. It is a nice site here with a meadow view right by the river.

Contrast-y photo of the campsite at Colby.

Returning from the river.